A photo journey of Bhutan (part 3) – Education and religion

In March 2011, we made an education exchange trip to Bhutan. This blog is part 3 of a series documenting life in Bhutan in the form of a photograph journey, as I saw the country. The photographs in this blog are reduced in size for ease of download. All photographs are copyright of the author unless otherwise stated.
 
Education
 
We visited a village school near Punakha town. Punakha, located in a valley is one of the towns at relatively low elevation. We took 1 hour 45 minutes to reach there, thanks to a wrong turn and bumpy roads. It would have taken an hour if we were on track.

Presenting gifts from Singapore to a Bhutan village school - books, eBooks and stationaries. This was followed by a dialogue between the school teachers and our delegation. Both sides learnt immensely from each other. We asked to have a look at some English composition by the children and were fairly impressed with the writings and poetries of grade 5 (11 year-old) students. English is used as the standard language for most of their textbooks. Teachers are all from Bhutan as well as from various parts of India.

 

Village school near Punakha town. The school's building is partly built by the Indian government, which also funded a computer laboratory with around 6 computers and provides IT lessons. The school takes in students from grades 1 to 9. The school has several buildings like this one. A new building was being added when we were there. Children would walk miles from farms to school every day.

 
 

Students in an middle primary class standing up to greet us. There are around 30 students in a class, one class per grade.

 
 
 

Young students seated neatly with folded arms awaiting instruction from the teacher. Students are generally well behaved.

 

A child's best friend. One of several dogs sleeping in the school. These dogs accompany their masters to school and wait there till school is dismissed. They then accompany the children home. Nice security escort!

 
 
We visited a private primary school in the capital city, Thimphu. A Singapore school, Xingnan primary had a delegation of teachers and students visiting them last year. Amongst its students is a girl whose mother is Singaporean.
 

Students performing in front of a princess to celebrate the anniversary of the King's visit to the school. I enjoyed their singing. A contest was earlier held for the best drawing of the King. The school is one of several private schools in the capital city, Thimphu. Fees are relatively inexpensive in private schools compared to developed countries, with fees under $100 a month per child.

A picture with the princess (in purple) and the owner of the private school (in green)

A classroom in the private school

Library in the private school

 

Our team and the workshop participants comprising mostly principals and vice principals of selected schools in capital city, Thimphu

 
 
Religion
 
Bhutanese are nearly all Buddhist. They practice Mahayana Buddhism, which orignates from Tibet. There are 4 major schools of Buddhism in Bhutan. Monks can either be celibate or can raise a family and work in the secular world.
 
Religion is pretty much integrated with daily lives. The dzongs or fortresses contain both administrative (government) offices as well as monasteries and  living quarters for monks. Our tour guide said it is an  honour for a family to have a monk. He aspires to be a monk one day, after a few more years of work as a tour guide. He turns religious every time we visit a temple.
 
 

The Punakha dzong, holding both an administration centre and a place of worship.

 

The temple inside the Punakha dzong

 
 
An old cypress tree, reputedly up to a thousand years old rises majestically in the Kychu Lhakhang temple near Paro town. Kychu Lhakhang, originally built in the 7th century is one of the oldest temple in Bhutan and an important Himalayan temple. Cypress is the official tree of Bhutan.
 
 
 

Cherry blossom in Kyichu Lhakhang temple.

 
Paryer wheels on the side of a temple wall. A mantra in Sanskrit is written on each wheel. Turning it is considered as meritorious as reciting the prayers.
 
 Paryer wheels on the side of a temple wall. A mantra in Sanskrit is written on each wheel. Turning it is considered as meritorious as reciting the prayers.
 
 

The Tiger's Nest monastery locked in a steep and high mountain cliff. There are various buildings on the mountain. The cluster in this picture is the most well known and highly photographed. It takes good stamina to reach the monastery.

 
 Close up of Tiger’s Nest. It was first built in 1692, destroyed by a fire in 1998 and rebuilt in 2005.
 
 
 

A young monk posing for us.

 
 

Monks in a row awaiting for the surprise arrival of the King at the Paro spring festiival

A photo journey of Bhutan (part 2) – People and life

In March 2011, we made an education exchange trip to Bhutan. This blog is part 2 of a series documenting life in Bhutan in the form of a photograph journey, as I saw the country. The photographs in this blog are reduced in size for ease of download. All photographs are copyright of the author unless otherwise stated.
 

People

Bhutan is a relatively closed country. Its indigenous population is the Drukpa, which is broken down into three main ethnic groups, the Sharchops, Ngalops and the Lhotsampas (of Nepalese origin). Bhutan’s earliest residents, the Sharchops reside mainly in eastern Bhutan. They can be traced to the tribes of northern Burma and northeast India. The Ngalops migrated from the Tibetan plainsa and bringing with them Buddhism, which is widely practiced in Bhutan today. Most of the Lhotsampas migrated to the southern plains in the early 20th century seeking agricultural land and work.

Merchant in Sunday market in capital city, Thimphu. The market is a vibrant place during Sundays.

 

A monk in a very old monastery. According to our tour guide, there are lay monks who can have a family and those who consecrate their lives for Buddhism. He said he would like to be a consecrated monk one day.

 

Grade 1 student in a village school

 

Cheeky boys getting ready to return to class after recess

 

Lady on handphone at the midway point in a 900 metres ardous climb up to the Tiger's Nest monastery. The monastery is located on a steep cliff at 3,120 metres above sea level. Many prayer flags are hung along mountains in Bhutan.

 

A lady merchant lying down by the path on the climb up Tiger's Nest monastery, waiting for customers to purchase her souveniers. Many peddlers have set up makeshift stalls along the mountainous pathway of this popular attraction. Not many sales take place, due to small number of tourists and large number of peddlers.

 
We were fortunate to be in Bhutan during the annual Paro Tsechu, a colourful festival in spring lasting for five days. Most of my photographs of Bhutanese in colourful outfits were taken at the event.
 

Three girls dressed for the Paro spring festival, watching the show from a vintage position.

 

A multitude of thousands lining the hillside watching the Paro festival show.

 
 

A young boy with titbits, waiting for Paro show to start.

 

Three girls walking to Paro spring festival. We saw many people on the road walking many tens of kilometres to the festival on our way by private bus there,

 

A boy concentrating on his handphone at the Paro festival, even in the mdist of much noise and movement.

 

Two ladies in their festival best

 

Young girl in sunglasses at the festival

 

Looking cool in traditional outfits

 

Deep in concentration despite noise and multitudes of people

 

 

 Life in Bhutan

Men at archery in an open field by the road. It is common to see men practising archery as it is their most popular pastime. The typical distance is around 140 metres from the target, as opposed to 50 metres in Olympics. Amazingly, a group of young ladies were happily dancing between the archers and the target, at a little angle off the line of shot. These men were fairly accurate. Unfortunately, Olympics archery format is different from that practiced in Bhutan and they did not do well in their first participation at the 2008 Beijing Olympics Games.

Young ladies dancing a little off line of flight of arrow from archer to target. One of our team members joined in the dancing. Nope, none of us were close to being shot at.

 

Children skipping rubberbands during breaktime in school

 

Rice sellers at the Sunday market in capital city Thimphu. The market is open only on Sunday.

Shoppers on Sunday in Thimphu. There are many Indians living and working in Thimphu.

 

Colourful handicrafts on sale at Sunday market in makeshift tents in Thimphu

 

A teacher from south India teaching in a private school in Thimphu. He was originally sent by the Indian government to teach in Bhutan and has now joined the private education sector.

 

A provision shop in Thimphu with a window shop front, manned by a young lady back in town during the school holidays.

 

Fresh vegatables in a roadside stall in capital city Thimphu on sale in the evening.

 

Negotiating to buy Yak cheese, apples and dried persimmons on a mountain pass trail. Yak cheese is tasteless and hard. After sucking at it for half an hour, my jaws were tired and I had to discard the half eaten Yak cheese. Good thing it's inexpensive.

 
 

Our tour operator giving us a surprise picnic with home-cooked food by a stream. Picnics are popular in Bhutan.

 
 

A dog lying peacefully amongst a crowd of people at the Paro festival. Dogs are very common throughout Bhutan. One of my team members woke up earlier to jog while at Thimphu but was scared off by a horde of dogs trailing her. I did not see cats though. Not with so many dogs everywhere.

 

A bull making its way through the crowd in Paro festival. People around it seemed unconcerned about its movement. Cows are fairly common in Bhutan, but not as much as in India.

 

With a Singaporean restaurant cum tour owner in Thimphu (in black). She is one of only two Singaporean ladies who have settled permanently in Bhutan after marrying Bhutanese. Her daughter now studies in an Indian high school based on the Cambridge examination system. By sheer coincidence, I met members of both Singaporean families on the same day. One was the daughter of the other Singaporean lady who is a student in a private primary school. In the evening, we stumbled into this restaurant and the owner recognised us by our 'Singaporean' English accent!

A villager with a basket of manure to prepare the padi fields for the next round of planting.

A villager giving direction to our bus driver when we lost our way navigating to a village school. There is hardly any road sign in the outskirts. We had to do a multi-point turn to change direction of the bus along a narrow dirt path on the edge of the cliff to backtrack our path out. I believed most on the bus prayed anxiously for safety as we perched close on the edge doing the multi-point U-turn.

 

A cluster of prayer flags on the way up Tiger's Nest. Such prayer flags dot the entire mountainous landscape. Bhutanese believe the wind will catch the prayers on the flags to take the prayers to their loved ones. At funerals, large prayer flags are flown.

 

An 'interesting' sign spotted at the Paro festival. Most Bhutanese speak English. In schools, most subjects are taught in English, except for learning of the Bhutanese language. Textbooks are in English.

A photo journey of Bhutan (part 1) – Architecture and environment

All photographs are copyright of the author unless otherwise stated. Future posts will cover education, life, religion and government.

An edcation exchange trip to Bhutan

In March 2011, I went with a group of 11 other educators to the Kingdom of Bhutan on an education exchange programme. It was self organised and self funded, with team leader and former MOE principal, Mr Koh Boon Long making the contacts with Bhutanese schools to tie down the 5-day programme.

Group arriving at Paro International Airport, 13 March 2011. I was not in the picture as I was the photographer.

That was my first trip to Bhutan and an enlightening one. This blog documents life in Bhutan in the form of a photograph journey, as I saw the country. The photographs in this blog are reduced in size for ease of download.

The small Drukair aeroplane that brought us from Bangkok to Bhutan. There are limited airports that connect into Bhutan. The most convenient for Singaporeans is from Bangkok, where there is a daily flight in the early morning. We stayed a night in Bangkok to be on time for this flight. Druk means dragon, the symbol of Bhutan. Drukair is the national airline.

Paro International Airport, at an elevation of 2,200 metres. It is 6 km from Paro town and sits in a valley at the bank of the Paro river. With surrounding mountains with peaks of up to 5,500 metres, it is one of the world's most challenging airport to fly into. Flight timings are often changed due to wind conditions. Our flight had to be push forward 1.5 hours because of impending strong winds. We heard some passengers missed their flight due to the change of timing and had to wait for the next day's flight.

Buildings

Bhutan has its unique architecture, with buildings that seemed to have come from the 18th century. There is a blend of ancient Chinese and Indian influence in the designs. There are not many modern and tall buildings yet in this country of around 700,000 population.

Decorated wooden window frames of an entertainment centre in Paro town. There are some discos and night dancing entertainment places even in this reclusive country, a sign of globalisation influencing its culture. Smoking is banned but liquour is widely available and permitted.

 
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New buildings in capital city, Thimphu. These buildings have less intricate designs and are more functional compared to traditional Bhutanese architecture

Village houses by the mountainside and beside padi fields, farms and rivers.

 

Houses by the countryside near town

 

A typical house by a mountain road

 
A roof made of zinc and wood with heavy stones holding the pieces down due to frequent strong winds.
Some houses, even in towns still have such roofs.
 

A hotel / commercial building in capital city Thimphu. Indian architectural influence on new buildings is quite strong. India has strong influence in Bhutan. They provide much of the defence and support in infrastructure development.

 

Interior of a dzong. A dzong is a fortress that contains both the administrative centre (government) of the area, temple and housing for monks. There are many dzongs in Bhutan.

 

Close up of wall and windows in a dzong. Walls are typically white and windows are crafted with fine designs.

  

A temple inside a dzong

A dzong by the river. Dzongs and houses dot the mountainside and valleys, often beside streams of fresh mountain waters.

Environment

Bhutan’s terrain is some of the most rugged in the world. There is huge variations in altitude for a relatively small geography. Bhutan’s elevation rises from 150 metres to more than 7,500 metres. Preservation of the environment is taken seriously by the Bhutanese. It is worded into its constitution to provide for the adoption and support of environment friendly practices and policies. At least sixty percent of Bhutan’s total land must be maintained as forest for all time. It currently stands at around 70%.

Bhutan is smoke free. Import and sale of cigarettes is illegal and punishable by a jail term.

Bright and warm morning sun on a mountainous route

Evening view from the window of our hotel facing a river near Punakha

 

View of the Himalayan mountains from Dochula pass at elevation of 3,150 metres. The pass separates capital city Thimphu and Punakha valley. Mount Everest can be seen from this pass.

 

Coniferous trees high up in Dochula pass with Himalayas in the background

 

A cuckoo bird hides amongst the tree branches near the Tiger's Nest

 

The takin is the national animal of Bhutan. It is found only in the eastern Himalayas. It has the body of a cow and the head of a goat.

 

Close up of cones. There are many coniferous trees on the mountains of Bhutan.

 

Red cherry blossom at a temple

 

The Finnish Education Model – Should Singapore emulate it?

After my recent blog post on Social Mobility where I touched on the Finnish education system, I received an email from a Singaporean living and working in Finland. I invited him to share with us a comparison of the Singapore and Finnish education system from the perspective of one who has experienced both systems first-hand.

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 Written by A Singaporean Observer in Finland

Finland is a quirky country, known for Nokia and Angry Birds. The Finns spend less than Singapore on defence and yet shares a border with Russia, who has a nuclear arsenal. The latest fad about Finland though, has been its education model.

Singapore and most countries have been studying the Finnish model to see if they can adopt and adapt it for themselves.

As a Singaporean living in Finland for the last four years, I had the opportunity to learn, understand and experience the Finnish education system in detail. My son has just started his own education journey here as well. It is a purely academic exercise to learn and read about a model, but profoundly illuminating to experience it first-hand.

Comparison between the Finnish and Singapore Education Model

“In Finland, the basic right to education and culture is recorded in the Constitution of Finland. Public authorities must secure equal opportunities for every resident in Finland to get education also after compulsory education and to develop themselves, irrespective of their financial standing. Legislation provides for compulsory education and the right to free pre-primary and basic education. Most other qualifying education is also free of charges for the students, including postgraduate education at universities.” – Finnish National Board of Education (http://www.oph.fi/english/education)

For Singaporeans reading this statement, it must certainly raise intriguing questions. Free education and yet still the best? University education is free even for foreigners? How do they do it? Why do they do it?  Personally, the oddity for me is that this statement is in English. There are very few official Finnish websites in English although more of it is now being introduced as a result of immigrant inflows. I believe that the Finnish government sees it as an advantage to be understood rather than be dogmatically defending its stance. It is a politically brave move but a superbly wise one.

The Finnish education system depicted below:

Finnish Education System

 Source: http://www.minedu.fi/export/sites/default/OPM/Koulutus/koulutusjaerjestelmae/liitteet/finnish_education.pdf

The Singapore education system depicted below:

The Singapore Education System

Source: http://www.moe.gov.sg/about/files/moe-corporate-brochure.pdf (page 3)

If you put them side by side, it would not take a genius to figure out which is simpler to understand.

There are three key differences here that can be identified immediately.

The first is the start and end points of the models. The Finnish model has a pre-primary education aspect in it and the ending point is actually a doctoral degree, whereas the Singapore model starts with primary school and ends at the undergraduate level.

The second is that work experience is only introduced at the end stage. If you take a look at another version of the Finnish education model here, you would see that work experience can start after ISCED level 3.

The remaining difference is that polytechnic degrees are on par with university degrees in Finland. Perhaps, those with keener eyes will also note the absence of private entities in the Finnish model.  Education is not a big commercial entity yet in Finland. There are private schools but few in comparison with Singapore. Those opting for private schools are still subsidised by the government, i.e. the government pays the equivalent sum as accorded for attendance in public schools, and parents pay the outstanding amount after the offset. Meritocratic enough?

It is not difficult to postulate from these differences, how one model will exceed the other. The Finnish model starts from a strong foundation at 8 months and finishes strong in the higher educational hierarchy. The Singapore model starts building foundations (officially) at age 7 and ends at the basic university education level. In Singapore’s case, MOE also does not have any focus on adult education since that is parked with the Ministry of Manpower instead. The Finnish model embraces adult education in its system.

 

Starting Young the Finnish Way and Never Finishing?

The Finnish daycares or päiväkoti (literally meaning day home in English) takes in children as young as 8 months. (Finnish maternity leave is 9 months, but you start your leave a month before the birth date. Once your maternity leave has expired, you either extend your maternity leave or send your child to the daycare.) From 8 months to 6 years old, the child is already learning through play. There is no formal teaching or learning at all. They sing, play indoors and outdoors (rain, shine or snow). My son willingly goes to school. My problem is now is getting him to leave school and remind him that school does not open on weekends. Perhaps, this is the Finnish way of cultivating a desire for school by associating it with fun times.

At 6 years old, all kids go through a pre-primary phase. 

“The general principles set forth in the core curriculum emphasise the child’s individuality and the significance of active learning and the importance of acting as a group member. Pre-primary education is based on the child’s own knowledge, skills and experiences. Its focus is on play and a positive outlook on life. From the educational point of view, working methods that accustom children to teamwork are of the utmost importance. Another central consideration is to promote the child’s own initiative and to emphasise its significance as the foundation for all activities.” – Finnish Board of Education

 In contrast, Singapore’s preschool is outsourced to the private sector with the following desired outcomes as listed here.

The question to ask is: Is early education critical enough not to outsource to the private sector, including community foundations, religious bodies, social organisations and business organisations, especially when some of the desired outcomes are important and fundamental to the formation of an individual?

The follow-on question would be: How do you ensure that there is no disparity at the end of the preschool education and ensure that the principle of meritocracy is adhered to?

Actually, the answer is provided by MOE here. It is a 40-page framework for kindergarten curriculum in Singapore. It contains an abundant sample of great quotes about education and the importance of early education. Here lies the irony. If the formative years are so important and perhaps even critical towards nation-building, why is it outsourced?

With regards to the end stage of the Singapore Education Model, a good question would be: Why end at the first degree? Is Singapore not interested in birthing new knowledge through greater numbers of locals pursuing further education or would it rather buy-in new knowledge? Or should people focus on getting girlfriends or boyfriends, get married, and procreate after graduation?

Much more can be stated about the differences between the models and functions of education in the two countries. Those interested will find all the information about the Finnish system here. Another good article on the Finnish Education Model can be found here.

 

Is there a weakest link in the Finnish Education Model?

The short answer is yes. The weakest link is actually at the university level. You will not find any of the Finnish universities in the global top 50 ranking. The highest is theUniversity of Helsinki, which ranks globally at 89. NUS ranks at 28 and NTU at 58. The Finns are not obsessed with ranking and not overly perturbed by this fact. However, they do recognise that there is a problem. There are some major policies and plans now in place to address the issue with clinical efficiency.

This does not mean that they churn out graduates that are inferior to the rest of the world. In reality, graduates here have a stronger sense of team working and the ability to embrace ambiguity. The phobia of failure and obsession with control is largely absent here. Failure and ambiguity are often perceived as opportunities in businesses, social development or personal achievement in Finland. I had a torrid time in my first year of university education here. 14 years of formal education and 15 years in the civil service in Singapore prepared me badly for embracing ambiguity. The Finns do not believe in a right answer, just an answer that may evolve with time.

Creativity and innovation is birthed from the beginning of their early childhood. Both of which involve embracing ambiguity. The key to success for the Finns is that their education model feeds into their ecosystem, which in turns nourishes it. Education is not a means to an end, nor is it an end in itself.  

 

The answer to the question is…

There are two key aspects to answering the question.  The first is the comparison between the Finnish and Singaporean Education Model. The second is the context, i.e. the Finnish ecosystem vis-à-vis the Singaporean ecosystem. The former, as outlined above, while inadequate, given the limitation of a blog piece, offers some insights. If we want a reasoned discourse on its merits and practicality for implementation in Singapore’s context, we need to have a more in-depth study. Experiential knowledge of the Finnish model would add a layer of practicality. While education is supposedly a universal concept, implementation, methods and functions can differ from country to country, given its own unique ecosystem at play. This is something to keep in mind, before we adopt or adapt any component of the Finnish Education Model.

You cannot do a “plug and play” of components from any ecosystem element and hope that it works miracles, although the Singaporean government has honed this skill over the last four decades. As a friend once imparted these wise words –

“You cannot hope to achieve different results by doing things the same way. You cannot hope to avoid consequences if you do things differently.”

 

Education is a vehicle that can effect changes in the entire ecosystem, be it social mobility or GDP. If a government changes its education model, it cannot hope to avoid consequences in one or more of the elements. I just wonder how ready Singaporeans and the government are for change and consequences. Perhaps, the focal point of the Finnish government supports its education model – the people’s well-being. If you are unwell, what can you achieve? How can you achieve?

My answer to the question thus, from the Finnish perspective, would be yes and no. I will probably ask my son, year after year, if he still enjoys school. The Abu Dhabi government though, has already decided to pilot the Finnish education system in two of their schools.

 

– The author attended ACS & Nanyang Junior College in Singapore, graduated from the University of Manchester, served in the civil service for 15 years and is currently residing in Finland.